Simple economics: the more people you have on one bus, the more money you make. Thus, it is not uncommon (but very uncomfortable) to have someone's crotch in your face, or yours in someone else's. In order to avoid these uncomfortable rides, at times we have had several change of plans because the busses have been too full. Sometimes there is no bus that goes from one place to another, and we have to find alternative modes of transport. Most of those rides have caused me to throw up
an old Pepsi truck, converted to bus (I threw up)
a large construction truck (I threw up)
a plush pick-up truck driver that was nice enough to take us through the andes mountains (I threw up)
Sometimes you get a "flight attendant" that serves you bad food, good snacks, or Coca Cola. If you get a double decker bus, the front seats give you the best leg room, the best views out the panorama window, and would make you a flying projectile if anything happened. Sometimes they play movies like Police Academy (1, 2, 3, 4, and 5) Bad Boys, or sometimes Christian movies. Nice busses have bathrooms, but they make sure to emphasize that they are only for urination purposes. No matter what bus you are on, there is sure to be a little child looking over the seat at you, just staring. We have learned that the best thing to do is stare back or stick your tongue out at them.
Of course, busses are captive audiences for eager vendors. One time a natural medicine doctor got on and showed pictures of all the horrible things that can happen to your private parts if you don't take this chinese medicine. Others sell food, cell phone chargers, or soda. One time a police officer got on, and asked for a tip because he was protecting the streets from thieves, and claimed that he didn't get a salary. Another got on to preach the gospel.
Our rule (whenever possible) is to take the bus, even with our large hiking backpacks and buckets. When we arrive in a city, we ask someone what bus we should take. Then we cram ourselves and our bags into whatever vehicle this bus happens to be. One time we were crammed in a large mini-van (pictured below) that not many white people ride.
Everyone knew each other, and began laughing very loudly while using the word "gringo" from time to time. We knew they were talking about us. It doesn't bother us to be the subject of conversation.
Busses cause a person to be more "tranquilo" (calm, cool and collected) because there is no telling what the trip will be like. They may arrive early or late. They may be cheap or expensive. The driver often stops for hot water for mate, or cold water for terere. They put Kat to sleep often within 10 minutes. People bring everything from animals to kitchen sinks with them. I don't fit well in them. Although riding busses were not our first choice of transport when beginning this trip, they have become some of the most memorable parts of South America. Life happens inside and outside every bus; we get to put our seats back and enjoy the view.
